Maasai Mara Trek: 8-17 February 2007
By Annabel Harper
As we arrived on a hot Nairobi morning, it was hard to believe that we’d taken off just a few hours earlier on seemingly the only day of the winter that Heathrow was facing severe delays because of snow. But we soon realised we really were on our way, when we saw the giraffe at the Nairobi National Park watching us drive by in our convoy of minibuses.
That first day gave us a taste of the horrendous state of Kenyan roads, as we travelled further into the beautiful Great Rift Valley. At times the tracks were wheel-high in mud because of unseasonably late rains.
The area known as the Maasai Mara is within this stunning savannah landscape and covers roughly 1512 square kilometres in total, about the same size as Greater London. We were treated to the sight of some great wildlife, including elephants, wildebeest, and zebra.
The Maasai Mara National Park itself is a protected area, where the animals can roam freely without fear of being hunted. This agreement has enabled the Maasai to live in relative safety outside the perimeter of the Park, but allows them to protect themselves should any of the wildlife stray into their lands.
We reached our first campsite having travelled a treacherously muddy track but spirits were high. It was a good opportunity to get to know each other even better and enjoy the meal cooked by our chef Samuel and his team. Throughout our trip, Samuel served up magical food, apparently out of nowhere, and in the most basic of kitchens.
Having been delayed by rain and mud - at one stage our vehicles even had to be hauled by tractor through a particularly tricky waterlogged and mud-filled trench - we finally started walking. The weather was much hotter than we’d all anticipated which added to the challenge, but we were rewarded with glorious scenery, and glimpses of elegant antelope and bright, colourful birds.
Throughout our trek, we were frequently greeted by gaily-dressed Maasai, who welcomed us like old friends. We were given a special tour of one village, where they sang and danced, did a roaring trade in beautiful handmade necklaces and bracelets and laughed at our appearance. Some of the villages we passed through can only be reached on foot, so many of the children had not seen strangers like us before, and in giggling groups, touched our skin and hair. We visited two schools, bringing pencils, notebooks and footballs for the children, and were overwhelmed by their joy as they sang to us in appreciation.
As the days went on, we became more accustomed to the heat, and the basic but adequate camps. It’s surprising how quickly you can adjust, as long as you have clean water! Finally, after walking nearly 100 kilometers, scrambling up and down stony paths and fording several rivers, we reached the climax of our trek at the very top of the Great Rift Valley. Before us stretched the floor of the valley, and in the distance we could see the mountains bordering Tanzania.
At our last night-stop, we learned that our tents and luggage had been held up by swollen rivers and impassable mud tracks (they finally turned up in the middle of the night), so we took over a small hostel where once again, Samuel managed to produce a terrific last supper and we celebrated until late. The next day, on our way back to Nairobi, we stopped at a beautiful spot overlooking another part of the Rift Valley and the Ngong Hills. It was a fitting end to our tremendous journey.
Coming back into Nairobi was a jolt to the senses: the traffic, the people and the noise seemed such an extreme after the serenity of the Mara. It was a wonderful experience with so many vivid memories: our lively Maasai guide, Ollie; the team who set up the camps for us; the gracious Maasai and their joyous singing and laughing; the breathtaking scenery and wildlife, and the friendship and laughter between us. All this - and for such a good cause! I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.
